Ghost Cowly resin toy

Lollipop Ghost Cowly 2015

Hey everyone, as some of you may have noticed on instagram I have been busy working on a new handmade resin toy for Halloween. I was only 13 when I first worked with resin and silicone but it was solely on Architectural models, I neither had the time nor the equipment to work on my own resin toy until now…

So I thought I would share with you the steps involved in the making of this resin Toy, for those interested in making your own resin toy, I believe this post might be very useful.

For this project I was inspired by a doodle I made for a Cowly fan during Halloween 2014 in Japan.

Cowly doodle

the first step is a no brainer just sketch and put on paper what you have in mind.

Ghost Cowly Sketche

Once I got a good feeling for my sketch I started the Digital Sculpt in Zbrush.

Ghost Cowly Digital Sculpt

Since this Sculpt was meant for resin I decided to have Cowly’s name as well as the year stamped underneath the model so I could keep track of it if I ever wanted to make a new version later on, and I believe people would also appreciate that.

Ghost Cowly Digital Sculpt

After tweaking the 3D sculpt to my liking I chose to go for a 3″ toy, then it was time to merge the 3D protoype and digitally hollow it out to get it ready for 3D printing.

Cowly doodle

if you are not familiar with 3D printing, hollowing your model allows you to save on 3D printing cost by using less resin from the printer, usually the minimum wall thickness allowed is 1mm, having a 2mm wall thickness will double the price of your prototype, so it is quite important to get this step right, you will also have to decimate the polygons of your models in order to squeeze your digital prototype to a file size of about 60mb or less otherwise the printer most likely won’t be able to print it.

Ghost Cowly 2015 Zbrush Digital sculpt

once you've received your 3D printed prototype you will have to fill it up yourself with resin. But before you do you will find a lot of wax residue left inside the hollow prototype, I used warm water and soap in order to clean it up, at this point the prototype shell is very fragile so be very careful when you clean it.

one thing you also have to keep in mind is that resin does not like humidity at all so make sure the inside of your model is super dry before you start filling up your prototype, or else you will end up with a big mess.

Now that you have a solid 3D printed prototype, you will notice (in most case) that despite the model looking quite good out of the printer, it is actually not smooth and by spraying it with a coat of Grey primer, you will see very obvious lines from the 3D printing process.

Having a very clean and smooth prototype is very important when you create your silicone mold any small flaw will show up in all the final pulls, so nedless to say you definitely do not want to neglect the next step which is smoothing out the prototype imperfections using wet sanding, to do this I used a range of various grit sanding paper starting from 240 and then gradually switching to 320, 800 and 1200. Make sure there is no more printing lines before moving to higher grit size of 800 and up. In my case once I ran out of grey primer on my model I will spray it again in order to see if there are any imperfection left. I will repeat this step a couple of time until I am sure the surface is perfectly smooth.

to be continued...

A lot of time and failure went into this project until I could get it right, you can now adopt your very own Ghost Cowly on my Online Store

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